Hi All,
well as many of you will now know I am laptop less and back to the cyber for email writing although my friend Julian left me with his touch phone so I can read incoming ones!!!
My last email was out we visited Kenana Knitters on Monday the 11th July! Which was also the day that on the return to Nakuru Julian and I went to the station to buy his ticket from Nairobi to Mombasa by train for the 15th, after we went through the whole process of her phoning through the booking to Nairobi and she filled out the receipt, Julian suggested that I went too as his guard to make sure he wasn't pestered and he would cover the costs. Sounded like a good plan to me and it was decided, the lady phoned Nairobi again and booked me on she then re wrote the receipt. Nice lady, she even gave me a nice new pen to keep as mine had leaked inside my bag!
The following day I had arranged for Julian and Henry to go with Nick to Lake Nakuru, I headed off to Scann to cut out more of the show costumes for the sewing lady as I would not be around on Saturday to assist her with cutting out. That evening I had heard that there were to be visitors to Scann so I headed home, tried to prepare dinner, power was out and it was pouring with rain, so a quick omelet and Julian and I were in a taxi headed in the dark to Scann which also had a power cut but they had eventually managed to get the generator to start supplying the hall with power. The boys performed beautifully with songs, dancing, acrobatics and karate show. We managed to get a lift home and had a nice early night.
13th July ...... got Julian a number for a dentist as his temporary filling for his root canal had fallen out. I headed to Scann for more alphabet painting with Emma and Julian was picked up by Nick for his appointment and would join us afterward. Emma and I had a good time painting it was starting to look great now the colours were being added. Julian appeared no worse for his appointment and we gave him the job of decorating his own short wall with shapes, triangle, square, circle etc he did them beautifully and I got him to add his name and date at the end for prosperity! From there we headed into town, then home for a quickie dinner as it was salsa night and also a PJ party at Guava afterwards. Well salsa was good fun and Emma joined us too we laughed so much it was great, we then left and stopped off to change en route to Guava, we looked a sight, I was in bootie stripped slippers - from Anna, black cycle shorts and black vest top not sure what else as cant remember...... oh Virgin eye mask covers for my hair band, and a teddy bear. Emma had on a pair of black leggings and top which I added to with my brother-in-laws Wallace and Gromit PJ boxers, together with a Virgin Toothbrush in her hair. Julian had on a T shirt and lightweight trousers with my lovely sisters silky blue wrap dressing gown, he looked lovely! We had such a fun night so many people came in fancy dress it was a laugh, many bad bad photos that I can't share with you! I think we got home about 2.30am a late one for us.
14th was a bit sluggish did some washing and sorting before our trip. Had coffee and lunch in town at Guava Lounge it poured with rain on the way home got totally soaked. Cooked dinner and sorted clothes out.
Packed things in the morning as couldnt find a back pack big enough so ended up packing a wheelie bag. Got a taxi into town as Julian had all his bags as would be leaving from Nairobi to UK on the way back from Mombasa. We took the Mololine shuttle to Nairobi and our plan was to arrive in Nairobi find Jenga and go to an afternoon show at Bomas of Kenya a cultural show of music and dancing. We arrived late and managed to grab a pizza for lunch before being picked up by Paul one of Jengas drivers who took us to Karen where the Bomas were. I had no idea how fab the show was to be, we entered and sat in a huge circular theatre, no idea the capacity but it became full to bursting. The show began and I was so pleased that after this long I had actually managed to go and see it. A must for any music / dance enthusiasts it was amazing. We left there and headed for a coffee before being taken to the train station. The traffic was at stand still and we were worried we would miss the 7pm deadline for the train so in a frantic effort the taxi driver found a parking place and walked us to the station, I have heard of schools doing walking bus but walking taxi is something else.
We had to fight our way through to the station past a huge bus/ coach station, it was bustling to put it mildly, we arrived and were pleased to see the train was still sat waiting for us. Actually we should not have worried, we walked the 15 carriages before we found ours and then sat waiting for quite some time before we set off. The First Class sleeping compartment that we had, may have been first class at some stage but not then. It comprised of two bunks, I had the upper one as more agile (we seemed not to have been given a ladder!) There was a small sink, what was labeled a wardrobe for jackets, a fan. It had definitely seen better days. We were just settling down to a good old chat when we were disturbed by the 'bedding boy' who dropped off bags with bedding and said he would be back to make up the beds. Sure enough he was, as there was no room inside we waited outside the compartment while he deftly made up the beds, sheets and blankets with pillow. Sometime later we were called to dinner by the dining car with someone going down the carriages clanking a spoon and metal sugar bowl lid together summoning us for dinner delights.
The dining car was made up with crockery and silverware, tables were a bit cramped for 4 people to a table but we managed. Many eager diners sat waiting to see what delights we would receive. We had mushroom soup and bread for starter followed by rice and veg casserole, or chicken and roast potatoes. Considering it was mass produced it was not bad, this was followed by a cuppa, bottles of soda and alcohol were available during dinner at a supplementary cost.
We retired to our compartment so that the next sitting could partake of dinner. The toilet facilities were as expected a hole in the floor to be used when not in a station, not in the sleeping compartment I would like to point out! I cleaned my teeth with the bottled water I had carried with me in anticipation of being required then clambered on to my bunk to settle down for sleep, or so I thought......... the train was so old and clankey that I tossed and rolled all night listening to all the noises. This together with Julian's snoring made for a sleepless night add to that the need to get up and use the toilet but not wanting to disturb Julian beneath was a problem added to by the lack of ladder. Luckily at some point Julian himself got up for a wee and I leapt at the chance while he was awake.
We were told we would arrive in Mombasa at between 7 & 8am being a 12 hour duration if no problems. We arrived at 11.30 am after being awoken at 6am for breakfast!!! Not funny! I had the number of a Taxi in Mombasa thanks to my friend Tim. He collected us and took us to the hotel via a supermarket for water, alcohol and provisions! We had a nap as soon as we arrived as I was so tired I couldnt think straight. We then headed to the beach for a walk before finding somewhere to eat, I knew just the place. Unfortunately the tide was very high which meant we were splashing round up to our knees on our walk making it a little difficult to make good headway. We walked back and had dinner at El Covo which was lovely the same place Kimberley and I had eaten, same seats too when she had visited, then back to the hotel for more sleep catch up!
17th Sunday, up for breakfast - the weather was rather overcast a contrast to our arrival yesterday it was so hot. We sat at the pool whilst trying to work out what was wrong with my laptop / hampered by the fact that the internet wi fi at the hotel was not working. A rather large group of young conservationist volunteers appeared at the pool which was time for us to head off for a walk along the beach, the sun was beating down and the tide was back where I was used to it being, definitely OUT! We stopped on the way back for pizza at a restaurant looking over the beach together with a few drinks, it was lovely. Early night as the sun was tiring us out that and the walking.
Mon 18th July, had breakfast then walked on the beach, talked a boat owner into taking us to the reef in his dhow for snorkelling, it was a bargain especially as I managed to use my Alien card which was out of date to get me a good deal on the pass for the reef, also lied a bit and said my husband had forgotten his card, but I had beaten him that morning to make him remember next time. The guy laughed and accepted my story so we made a good saving. The tide was way out so we had a bit of a walk to reach the Dhow, I am sure it had seen better days but it performed beautifully, against the motor driven glass bottomed boat which was the alternative, needless to say we had the best option, it was amazing and so well handled by the two guys with us. They took us out and one of them escorted us snorkeling as I explained I could not see without my glasses, it was actually quite clear, I managed to see many of the fish. Especially those that were in front of my face when I was giving them bread from my fingers, I actually had to swim backwards so they wouldn't bump into me. The colours were amazing, wrasse, parrot and star fish, a sea snake and so much more. I was so pleased that we made the effort to haggle and went for the sail. On the way back to shore we discussed lunch and decided to head to the public end of the beach which was miles away, I knew that there was a fish market and they would cook your fish there and then on the beach. Considering I dont like fish it was a fabulous experience, we had white snapper and it was delicious, we were sat surrounded by many cats enjoying our meal, that Julian photographed being prepared and cooked. The guy who cooked it came and sat with us chatting and obviously happy that we were pleased with his culinary expertise.
We walked slowly back along the beach, had a drink on the way and then headed for a nap planning on going out later, satisfied and pleased with the days events and the lovely people we had met. I crashed and slept all night, leaving Julian chatting on hot mail to Kimberley, I think the snoring and bar next door had been hampering a good nights sleep for me.
Tuesday 19th, we woke early and headed straight to the beach for a long walk before breakfast as today we headed back to Nairobi. We actually walked and watched the sun rise, it was beautiful and there were no looky looky people on the beach at that time, no stall holders pestering us for buying their wares, and guys trying to sell us boat trips or safaris, it was peaceful! We walked past the fish market where we had eaten the day before to the complete end of the beach, we passed a hotel which promoted no smoking or alcohol..... give that one a wide berth on the alcohol front! On the way back we stopped for a coffee where we had had pizza, people were just appearing and setting up their stalls on the beach. I chatted to a lady called Lucy who had a story to tell. We headed back for breakfast checked out, put our bags into the store cupboard and sat by the pool. We headed back to the beach so Julian could interview Lucy on video for his Kenyan experience stories. She was only too happy to be interviewed and as the beach was so windy and becoming busy she took us to a small shed that was used as a church and was where she attended service. From there Julian and I headed for some lunch back at El Covo I had pasta in ham and cream sauce and Julian had ... cant remember but it was delicious a contrast from the fresh fish from the day before but none the less yummy. We went back and killed time by the pool, I had a swim then the taxi came and picked us up for the return journey, not something I was looking forward to. It was basically a repeat of the way down still no sleep!
Jenga tried to pick us from the station in Nairobi but the traffic was still bad cluttered with buses and coaches, so I told him we would start walking towards where I thought he would be. We met at a roundabout where he parked and loaded us on board. I told him to drop us at Java Coffee house as I had a huge need for coffee. The coffee was needed and hit the spot. Now the plan had been for me to get the shuttle back to Nakuru and for Jenga to take Julian around to the Giraffe sanctuary (it was too late for the elephant orphanage unfortunately as the train was late arriving!) I ended up agreeing to go the the Giraffe sanctuary as had not been before. It was some way out of town but the ride was smooth and full of traffic, time to chill. We enjoyed seeing the giraffes up close and feeding them, then returned to Nairobi, Jenga coursing his way through the nightmare traffic to drop me off at the shuttle, I actually leapt out along the way as the traffic was at stand still grabbed my wheelie suitcase, hugged Julian, told Jenga to look after Julian and headed off to the shuttle, I tried to nod on the way back to Nakuru but just couldn't manage, unfortunately I was in the last seat available and was in the blazing sunshine all the way back to Nakuru, sweltering hot, a good job I still had plenty of water with me.
Got home, said hi to Henry and the animals, dropped my bag, grabbed a sandwich and a coffee, a shower and changed and headed to salsa with the girls, having promised that I would be back early enough to go with them. Fun was had by all but not quite as much as last week with the PJ party afterwards!
Hoping you are all well. My trip to Mombasa was lovely but now back to lots of work with Mama Sweetie and washing bedding from my visitors and clothes from my trip. Found lots of sand in my shoes............ reminds me of a song!
Love and kisses to you all. Nearly caught up but not quite, my fingers are aching and time to go as I can smell it is raining again outside.
Susannah
Showing posts with label Mombassa. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mombassa. Show all posts
Tuesday, 26 July 2011
More Catch-Up
Sorry laptop is still not working so using Julians whilst in Mombassa to type this....
6th July arranged to meet our old friend Veronica who runs Garden Villa a restaurant and bar (Ailsa and I both stayed with her when we first went out to Kenya in 2006) We decided to go to have nyama Choma (roast meat) This process usually from ordering to eating takes a couple of hours as it is not a quick process - which goes with many things here in Kenya. We caught up with Veronica between her doing disappearing acts, but as always it was lovely to see what little of her we could manage. We had a nice meal and then headed back home to get ready for a crazy night at salsa. Julian actually managed to show then how to do a bit of rueda dancing, we laughed so much we didnt know what to do with ourselves, it was such a fun night, the two teachers were eager to spend more time with Julian so that he could share his salsa knowledge but we were off the following day to meet friends in Naro Moro near Mount Kenya.
7th July Ailsa wanted to make the trip to Naro Moro and I decided it was a good opportunity for Julian to see other areas of Kenya. We had an event ful trip, Ailsa and I sat on the back seat of the matatu (it had a low roof) and we got Julian to sit in the next row which had more head room. Needless to say they crammed our bags in, including one with donations of cold weather clothes for our friends (Jayne - it included your white fur fleece!) We had banked on the fact that it would be alot cooler near Mount Kenya but nothing prepared us for how cold the nights would be, it was so so so cold I ended up wearing the fur fleece as I was freezing. Ailsa wore a big warm parker that she was taking up for one of the men at the re forestation projects! Julian just managed with what he had he didnt quite feel the cold like we did. We visited the re forestation project which had grown since we last visited a number of years ago. Everyone was so happy to see us it made us feel bad for it having been so long since our last visit. We slept early after a rushed hi to our friends
The 8th July we rather cold headed to the project to help with some of the work of potting up plastic bags with soil for seedling planting, we chatted about the project and its work and Julian actually took a video of Robert talking about the project to add to their web site, we were taken for a walk to one of the slopes that had been stripped of trees to see where in 2007 Ailsa had planted seedlings with a group of volunteers, the seedlings were now about 3 ft tall, considering that they had been very short of rain they had survived well and were looking strong. The work wasnt just to add trees, it was to help restore the whole balance of water harnessing that had been destroyed by stripping of the forests. The trees help stop the rains from evapourating and create a natural water harnessing system which helps keep the water in the soil, this feeds down to the streams and rivers helping the lowland areas. No trees means lack of water.
That evening a group of about 20 business people from Nairobi in their expensive and big 4x4 vehicles, we were told they were doing a team building exercise and climbing to the first rangers station at Mt Kenya. Team building they definately did making so much noise playing 'team' games that we got little sleep, they then got up at 5am to prepare for their day's walk, making so much noise clicking on and off the car alarms, slamming car doors and talking loudly, it was so nice of them to appreciate that we were also staying there and we had had no sleep due to them the night before.
9th July We were cold and so tired - not a good combination. Julian thought we were kidding about the fact that we could normally see Mt Kenya as it was so foggy and cloudy that you could see NO mountain at all. We went and spent the day with our friends Scholar and John and their two children, we had a lovely time, played some salsa music and did a bit of dancing - Scholar loves to dance and was glad for the opportunity as Julian as her instructor. We had lunch with them and Julian made another video of John talking about his life as a smallholding farmer. It was an amazing time and we were upset to leave them. Ailsa was heading to Nairobi to get her flight the next day, Julian and I were returning to Nakuru. It was an emotional day with lots of hugs as we left Ailsa in Nyahururu, little did Julian and I know just how long it would take us to get home, it was so dark and I found it impossible to see where we were to get land marks, luckily we eventually got back exhausted, we ate at Bota Sola as it was too late to start cooking when I got home, chicken and chipati was all they could rustle up as the kitchen had already closed, (it is good to know the manager he fed us). We got home and flopped into bed exhausted only to be awoken by the cockerel!
I had also previously made arrangements to join my friend Cheryl on a walk round Menengai Crater to show Julian what an amazing place it was. Cheryl came and collected us at 8.30am - we sat and had a cup of tea at Cheryls whilst talking to her family and waiting for other friends to join us. We clambered into the friends old green landrover together with provisions for breakfast in the crater. Cheryl and her daughter followed in the estate car with the 7 dogs in the back. We had a lovely walk and then met up with Paddy who was driving the landrover who had taken it down into the crater with the provisions for us to make a picnic breakfast, all very 'famous five' on a trip, it was almost surreal. We had drop pancakes, cookies, flap jacks tea and coffee, by the time we left we were stuffed. We all headed back to Cheryl's, Paddy and her friends left. Julian and I joined Cheryl's family for a proper cooked breakfast which then turned into a long story telling session and then extended into an impromptu lunch which was whatever we found it the fridge. We laughed and chatted loads and rather alot of alcoholic fruit punch was consumed - excepting Cheryl as she doesnt drink! By the time Cheryl was ready to drive us home we were a little giggly and even more so when we disclosed that we needed to go via the supermarket for provisions, Cheryl did a quick list of her own and we set off. I dont think the supermarket was quite ready for us decending on them, but we managed to pick bits up that were useful when we got home. In return for the lift and great friendship I let Cheryl take cuttings of two of my bouganvilliers which she has been admiring for some time.
10th July we had arranged to visit Paddy at her farm where she runs a womans project called the Kenana Knitters. As it is some distance from me, Julian and I arranged to meet one of the workers in town to get a lift. Now the story here is that Paddy and her husband own 800 acres of land on which they breed horses, have a dairy and wheat farm, an overland vehicle camp site, and various properties that they rent out to families, also they run the project which started out as being an acquired project left to them which involved women preparing fleeces to be spun into wool, which was sold. Well the project grew and the wool is now bought from sheep farmers in various regions, the wool is then sent out to be spun and washed, it is returned to the project ready to be dyed and knitted into garments and toys. These items are shipped out to outlets round the world, many places giving specific orders for items that they want individualised. The project has grown from strength to strength. The ladies who work for the project are supported by earning for the piece work they produce either at the project or in their own homes. In return Paddy also provides health care for the women, HIV advisors come and take to the women together with providing anti viral meds and a clinic on the premises for family planning and other health issues. A savings plan is in place to help the woman keep their money as their own instead of going into the hands of their husbands who often abuse them and spend the money on booze or drugs. The woman are also encouraged to do basic literacy classes on the premises enabling them to be able to write their names and basic reading, as many of them have had no schooling. There is now even a computer class available to those that are able to progress further. The project has 240 woman workers who are helped by the business many of whom are HIV positive and now able to receive medication without the need for treking to the nearest VCT clinic to get them, which in some cases can be a trek of many hours to get to it. The smaller children of the workers also come and are helped by the clinic and are found sitting on the grass under the shade of the trees playing with the creche toys whilst their mothers are busy knitting and finding the comfort of like minded women to spend time with who know their situations are similar. To many woman this has become their life line to a 'normal' life, they have gained freedom from husbands who abuse and beat them to be able to rent somewhere for them to live with their children in a safe environment. They have found a community of people who understand their plight. A number of them have progressed so well that they have found employment outside with the help of additional support from the project. I am possibly going to look at spending a few days a week helping at his project if I can sort out the transport issues.
Ok well that is enough catch up for now will send more maybe tomorrow.... so much to tell and so much is happening I just cant keep up.
Love to you all,
Susannah
6th July arranged to meet our old friend Veronica who runs Garden Villa a restaurant and bar (Ailsa and I both stayed with her when we first went out to Kenya in 2006) We decided to go to have nyama Choma (roast meat) This process usually from ordering to eating takes a couple of hours as it is not a quick process - which goes with many things here in Kenya. We caught up with Veronica between her doing disappearing acts, but as always it was lovely to see what little of her we could manage. We had a nice meal and then headed back home to get ready for a crazy night at salsa. Julian actually managed to show then how to do a bit of rueda dancing, we laughed so much we didnt know what to do with ourselves, it was such a fun night, the two teachers were eager to spend more time with Julian so that he could share his salsa knowledge but we were off the following day to meet friends in Naro Moro near Mount Kenya.
7th July Ailsa wanted to make the trip to Naro Moro and I decided it was a good opportunity for Julian to see other areas of Kenya. We had an event ful trip, Ailsa and I sat on the back seat of the matatu (it had a low roof) and we got Julian to sit in the next row which had more head room. Needless to say they crammed our bags in, including one with donations of cold weather clothes for our friends (Jayne - it included your white fur fleece!) We had banked on the fact that it would be alot cooler near Mount Kenya but nothing prepared us for how cold the nights would be, it was so so so cold I ended up wearing the fur fleece as I was freezing. Ailsa wore a big warm parker that she was taking up for one of the men at the re forestation projects! Julian just managed with what he had he didnt quite feel the cold like we did. We visited the re forestation project which had grown since we last visited a number of years ago. Everyone was so happy to see us it made us feel bad for it having been so long since our last visit. We slept early after a rushed hi to our friends
The 8th July we rather cold headed to the project to help with some of the work of potting up plastic bags with soil for seedling planting, we chatted about the project and its work and Julian actually took a video of Robert talking about the project to add to their web site, we were taken for a walk to one of the slopes that had been stripped of trees to see where in 2007 Ailsa had planted seedlings with a group of volunteers, the seedlings were now about 3 ft tall, considering that they had been very short of rain they had survived well and were looking strong. The work wasnt just to add trees, it was to help restore the whole balance of water harnessing that had been destroyed by stripping of the forests. The trees help stop the rains from evapourating and create a natural water harnessing system which helps keep the water in the soil, this feeds down to the streams and rivers helping the lowland areas. No trees means lack of water.
That evening a group of about 20 business people from Nairobi in their expensive and big 4x4 vehicles, we were told they were doing a team building exercise and climbing to the first rangers station at Mt Kenya. Team building they definately did making so much noise playing 'team' games that we got little sleep, they then got up at 5am to prepare for their day's walk, making so much noise clicking on and off the car alarms, slamming car doors and talking loudly, it was so nice of them to appreciate that we were also staying there and we had had no sleep due to them the night before.
9th July We were cold and so tired - not a good combination. Julian thought we were kidding about the fact that we could normally see Mt Kenya as it was so foggy and cloudy that you could see NO mountain at all. We went and spent the day with our friends Scholar and John and their two children, we had a lovely time, played some salsa music and did a bit of dancing - Scholar loves to dance and was glad for the opportunity as Julian as her instructor. We had lunch with them and Julian made another video of John talking about his life as a smallholding farmer. It was an amazing time and we were upset to leave them. Ailsa was heading to Nairobi to get her flight the next day, Julian and I were returning to Nakuru. It was an emotional day with lots of hugs as we left Ailsa in Nyahururu, little did Julian and I know just how long it would take us to get home, it was so dark and I found it impossible to see where we were to get land marks, luckily we eventually got back exhausted, we ate at Bota Sola as it was too late to start cooking when I got home, chicken and chipati was all they could rustle up as the kitchen had already closed, (it is good to know the manager he fed us). We got home and flopped into bed exhausted only to be awoken by the cockerel!
I had also previously made arrangements to join my friend Cheryl on a walk round Menengai Crater to show Julian what an amazing place it was. Cheryl came and collected us at 8.30am - we sat and had a cup of tea at Cheryls whilst talking to her family and waiting for other friends to join us. We clambered into the friends old green landrover together with provisions for breakfast in the crater. Cheryl and her daughter followed in the estate car with the 7 dogs in the back. We had a lovely walk and then met up with Paddy who was driving the landrover who had taken it down into the crater with the provisions for us to make a picnic breakfast, all very 'famous five' on a trip, it was almost surreal. We had drop pancakes, cookies, flap jacks tea and coffee, by the time we left we were stuffed. We all headed back to Cheryl's, Paddy and her friends left. Julian and I joined Cheryl's family for a proper cooked breakfast which then turned into a long story telling session and then extended into an impromptu lunch which was whatever we found it the fridge. We laughed and chatted loads and rather alot of alcoholic fruit punch was consumed - excepting Cheryl as she doesnt drink! By the time Cheryl was ready to drive us home we were a little giggly and even more so when we disclosed that we needed to go via the supermarket for provisions, Cheryl did a quick list of her own and we set off. I dont think the supermarket was quite ready for us decending on them, but we managed to pick bits up that were useful when we got home. In return for the lift and great friendship I let Cheryl take cuttings of two of my bouganvilliers which she has been admiring for some time.
10th July we had arranged to visit Paddy at her farm where she runs a womans project called the Kenana Knitters. As it is some distance from me, Julian and I arranged to meet one of the workers in town to get a lift. Now the story here is that Paddy and her husband own 800 acres of land on which they breed horses, have a dairy and wheat farm, an overland vehicle camp site, and various properties that they rent out to families, also they run the project which started out as being an acquired project left to them which involved women preparing fleeces to be spun into wool, which was sold. Well the project grew and the wool is now bought from sheep farmers in various regions, the wool is then sent out to be spun and washed, it is returned to the project ready to be dyed and knitted into garments and toys. These items are shipped out to outlets round the world, many places giving specific orders for items that they want individualised. The project has grown from strength to strength. The ladies who work for the project are supported by earning for the piece work they produce either at the project or in their own homes. In return Paddy also provides health care for the women, HIV advisors come and take to the women together with providing anti viral meds and a clinic on the premises for family planning and other health issues. A savings plan is in place to help the woman keep their money as their own instead of going into the hands of their husbands who often abuse them and spend the money on booze or drugs. The woman are also encouraged to do basic literacy classes on the premises enabling them to be able to write their names and basic reading, as many of them have had no schooling. There is now even a computer class available to those that are able to progress further. The project has 240 woman workers who are helped by the business many of whom are HIV positive and now able to receive medication without the need for treking to the nearest VCT clinic to get them, which in some cases can be a trek of many hours to get to it. The smaller children of the workers also come and are helped by the clinic and are found sitting on the grass under the shade of the trees playing with the creche toys whilst their mothers are busy knitting and finding the comfort of like minded women to spend time with who know their situations are similar. To many woman this has become their life line to a 'normal' life, they have gained freedom from husbands who abuse and beat them to be able to rent somewhere for them to live with their children in a safe environment. They have found a community of people who understand their plight. A number of them have progressed so well that they have found employment outside with the help of additional support from the project. I am possibly going to look at spending a few days a week helping at his project if I can sort out the transport issues.
Ok well that is enough catch up for now will send more maybe tomorrow.... so much to tell and so much is happening I just cant keep up.
Love to you all,
Susannah
Monday, 18 July 2011
More Catch-Up
Sorry laptop is still not working so using Julians whilst in Mombassa to type this....
6th July arranged to meet our old friend Veronica who runs Garden Villa a restaurant and bar (Ailsa and I both stayed with her when we first went out to Kenya in 2006) We decided to go to have nyama Choma (roast meat) This process usually from ordering to eating takes a couple of hours as it is not a quick process - which goes with many things here in Kenya. We caught up with Veronica between her doing disappearing acts, but as always it was lovely to see what little of her we could manage. We had a nice meal and then headed back home to get ready for a crazy night at salsa. Julian actually managed to show then how to do a bit of rueda dancing, we laughed so much we didnt know what to do with ourselves, it was such a fun night, the two teachers were eager to spend more time with Julian so that he could share his salsa knowledge but we were off the following day to meet friends in Naro Moro near Mount Kenya.
7th July Ailsa wanted to make the trip to Naro Moro and I decided it was a good opportunity for Julian to see other areas of Kenya. We had an event ful trip, Ailsa and I sat on the back seat of the matatu (it had a low roof) and we got Julian to sit in the next row which had more head room. Needless to say they crammed our bags in, including one with donations of cold weather clothes for our friends (Jayne - it included your white fur fleece!) We had banked on the fact that it would be alot cooler near Mount Kenya but nothing prepared us for how cold the nights would be, it was so so so cold I ended up wearing the fur fleece as I was freezing. Ailsa wore a big warm parker that she was taking up for one of the men at the re forestation projects! Julian just managed with what he had he didnt quite feel the cold like we did. We visited the re forestation project which had grown since we last visited a number of years ago. Everyone was so happy to see us it made us feel bad for it having been so long since our last visit. We slept early after a rushed hi to our friends
The 8th July we rather cold headed to the project to help with some of the work of potting up plastic bags with soil for seedling planting, we chatted about the project and its work and Julian actually took a video of Robert talking about the project to add to their web site, we were taken for a walk to one of the slopes that had been stripped of trees to see where in 2007 Ailsa had planted seedlings with a group of volunteers, the seedlings were now about 3 ft tall, considering that they had been very short of rain they had survived well and were looking strong. The work wasnt just to add trees, it was to help restore the whole balance of water harnessing that had been destroyed by stripping of the forests. The trees help stop the rains from evapourating and create a natural water harnessing system which helps keep the water in the soil, this feeds down to the streams and rivers helping the lowland areas. No trees means lack of water.
That evening a group of about 20 business people from Nairobi in their expensive and big 4x4 vehicles, we were told they were doing a team building exercise and climbing to the first rangers station at Mt Kenya. Team building they definately did making so much noise playing 'team' games that we got little sleep, they then got up at 5am to prepare for their day's walk, making so much noise clicking on and off the car alarms, slamming car doors and talking loudly, it was so nice of them to appreciate that we were also staying there and we had had no sleep due to them the night before.
9th July We were cold and so tired - not a good combination. Julian thought we were kidding about the fact that we could normally see Mt Kenya as it was so foggy and cloudy that you could see NO mountain at all. We went and spent the day with our friends Scholar and John and their two children, we had a lovely time, played some salsa music and did a bit of dancing - Scholar loves to dance and was glad for the opportunity as Julian as her instructor. We had lunch with them and Julian made another video of John talking about his life as a smallholding farmer. It was an amazing time and we were upset to leave them. Ailsa was heading to Nairobi to get her flight the next day, Julian and I were returning to Nakuru. It was an emotional day with lots of hugs as we left Ailsa in Nyahururu, little did Julian and I know just how long it would take us to get home, it was so dark and I found it impossible to see where we were to get land marks, luckily we eventually got back exhausted, we ate at Bota Sola as it was too late to start cooking when I got home, chicken and chipati was all they could rustle up as the kitchen had already closed, (it is good to know the manager he fed us). We got home and flopped into bed exhausted only to be awoken by the cockerel!
I had also previously made arrangements to join my friend Cheryl on a walk round Menengai Crater to show Julian what an amazing place it was. Cheryl came and collected us at 8.30am - we sat and had a cup of tea at Cheryls whilst talking to her family and waiting for other friends to join us. We clambered into the friends old green landrover together with provisions for breakfast in the crater. Cheryl and her daughter followed in the estate car with the 7 dogs in the back. We had a lovely walk and then met up with Paddy who was driving the landrover who had taken it down into the crater with the provisions for us to make a picnic breakfast, all very 'famous five' on a trip, it was almost surreal. We had drop pancakes, cookies, flap jacks tea and coffee, by the time we left we were stuffed. We all headed back to Cheryl's, Paddy and her friends left. Julian and I joined Cheryl's family for a proper cooked breakfast which then turned into a long story telling session and then extended into an impromptu lunch which was whatever we found it the fridge. We laughed and chatted loads and rather alot of alcoholic fruit punch was consumed - excepting Cheryl as she doesnt drink! By the time Cheryl was ready to drive us home we were a little giggly and even more so when we disclosed that we needed to go via the supermarket for provisions, Cheryl did a quick list of her own and we set off. I dont think the supermarket was quite ready for us decending on them, but we managed to pick bits up that were useful when we got home. In return for the lift and great friendship I let Cheryl take cuttings of two of my bouganvilliers which she has been admiring for some time.
10th July we had arranged to visit Paddy at her farm where she runs a womans project called the Kenana Knitters. As it is some distance from me, Julian and I arranged to meet one of the workers in town to get a lift. Now the story here is that Paddy and her husband own 800 acres of land on which they breed horses, have a dairy and wheat farm, an overland vehicle camp site, and various properties that they rent out to families, also they run the project which started out as being an acquired project left to them which involved women preparing fleeces to be spun into wool, which was sold. Well the project grew and the wool is now bought from sheep farmers in various regions, the wool is then sent out to be spun and washed, it is returned to the project ready to be dyed and knitted into garments and toys. These items are shipped out to outlets round the world, many places giving specific orders for items that they want individualised. The project has grown from strength to strength. The ladies who work for the project are supported by earning for the piece work they produce either at the project or in their own homes. In return Paddy also provides health care for the women, HIV advisors come and take to the women together with providing anti viral meds and a clinic on the premises for family planning and other health issues. A savings plan is in place to help the woman keep their money as their own instead of going into the hands of their husbands who often abuse them and spend the money on booze or drugs. The woman are also encouraged to do basic literacy classes on the premises enabling them to be able to write their names and basic reading, as many of them have had no schooling. There is now even a computer class available to those that are able to progress further. The project has 240 woman workers who are helped by the business many of whom are HIV positive and now able to receive medication without the need for treking to the nearest VCT clinic to get them, which in some cases can be a trek of many hours to get to it. The smaller children of the workers also come and are helped by the clinic and are found sitting on the grass under the shade of the trees playing with the creche toys whilst their mothers are busy knitting and finding the comfort of like minded women to spend time with who know their situations are similar. To many woman this has become their life line to a 'normal' life, they have gained freedom from husbands who abuse and beat them to be able to rent somewhere for them to live with their children in a safe environment. They have found a community of people who understand their plight. A number of them have progressed so well that they have found employment outside with the help of additional support from the project. I am possibly going to look at spending a few days a week helping at his project if I can sort out the transport issues.
Ok well that is enough catch up for now will send more maybe tomorrow.... so much to tell and so much is happening I just cant keep up.
Love to you all,
Susannah
6th July arranged to meet our old friend Veronica who runs Garden Villa a restaurant and bar (Ailsa and I both stayed with her when we first went out to Kenya in 2006) We decided to go to have nyama Choma (roast meat) This process usually from ordering to eating takes a couple of hours as it is not a quick process - which goes with many things here in Kenya. We caught up with Veronica between her doing disappearing acts, but as always it was lovely to see what little of her we could manage. We had a nice meal and then headed back home to get ready for a crazy night at salsa. Julian actually managed to show then how to do a bit of rueda dancing, we laughed so much we didnt know what to do with ourselves, it was such a fun night, the two teachers were eager to spend more time with Julian so that he could share his salsa knowledge but we were off the following day to meet friends in Naro Moro near Mount Kenya.
7th July Ailsa wanted to make the trip to Naro Moro and I decided it was a good opportunity for Julian to see other areas of Kenya. We had an event ful trip, Ailsa and I sat on the back seat of the matatu (it had a low roof) and we got Julian to sit in the next row which had more head room. Needless to say they crammed our bags in, including one with donations of cold weather clothes for our friends (Jayne - it included your white fur fleece!) We had banked on the fact that it would be alot cooler near Mount Kenya but nothing prepared us for how cold the nights would be, it was so so so cold I ended up wearing the fur fleece as I was freezing. Ailsa wore a big warm parker that she was taking up for one of the men at the re forestation projects! Julian just managed with what he had he didnt quite feel the cold like we did. We visited the re forestation project which had grown since we last visited a number of years ago. Everyone was so happy to see us it made us feel bad for it having been so long since our last visit. We slept early after a rushed hi to our friends
The 8th July we rather cold headed to the project to help with some of the work of potting up plastic bags with soil for seedling planting, we chatted about the project and its work and Julian actually took a video of Robert talking about the project to add to their web site, we were taken for a walk to one of the slopes that had been stripped of trees to see where in 2007 Ailsa had planted seedlings with a group of volunteers, the seedlings were now about 3 ft tall, considering that they had been very short of rain they had survived well and were looking strong. The work wasnt just to add trees, it was to help restore the whole balance of water harnessing that had been destroyed by stripping of the forests. The trees help stop the rains from evapourating and create a natural water harnessing system which helps keep the water in the soil, this feeds down to the streams and rivers helping the lowland areas. No trees means lack of water.
That evening a group of about 20 business people from Nairobi in their expensive and big 4x4 vehicles, we were told they were doing a team building exercise and climbing to the first rangers station at Mt Kenya. Team building they definately did making so much noise playing 'team' games that we got little sleep, they then got up at 5am to prepare for their day's walk, making so much noise clicking on and off the car alarms, slamming car doors and talking loudly, it was so nice of them to appreciate that we were also staying there and we had had no sleep due to them the night before.
9th July We were cold and so tired - not a good combination. Julian thought we were kidding about the fact that we could normally see Mt Kenya as it was so foggy and cloudy that you could see NO mountain at all. We went and spent the day with our friends Scholar and John and their two children, we had a lovely time, played some salsa music and did a bit of dancing - Scholar loves to dance and was glad for the opportunity as Julian as her instructor. We had lunch with them and Julian made another video of John talking about his life as a smallholding farmer. It was an amazing time and we were upset to leave them. Ailsa was heading to Nairobi to get her flight the next day, Julian and I were returning to Nakuru. It was an emotional day with lots of hugs as we left Ailsa in Nyahururu, little did Julian and I know just how long it would take us to get home, it was so dark and I found it impossible to see where we were to get land marks, luckily we eventually got back exhausted, we ate at Bota Sola as it was too late to start cooking when I got home, chicken and chipati was all they could rustle up as the kitchen had already closed, (it is good to know the manager he fed us). We got home and flopped into bed exhausted only to be awoken by the cockerel!
I had also previously made arrangements to join my friend Cheryl on a walk round Menengai Crater to show Julian what an amazing place it was. Cheryl came and collected us at 8.30am - we sat and had a cup of tea at Cheryls whilst talking to her family and waiting for other friends to join us. We clambered into the friends old green landrover together with provisions for breakfast in the crater. Cheryl and her daughter followed in the estate car with the 7 dogs in the back. We had a lovely walk and then met up with Paddy who was driving the landrover who had taken it down into the crater with the provisions for us to make a picnic breakfast, all very 'famous five' on a trip, it was almost surreal. We had drop pancakes, cookies, flap jacks tea and coffee, by the time we left we were stuffed. We all headed back to Cheryl's, Paddy and her friends left. Julian and I joined Cheryl's family for a proper cooked breakfast which then turned into a long story telling session and then extended into an impromptu lunch which was whatever we found it the fridge. We laughed and chatted loads and rather alot of alcoholic fruit punch was consumed - excepting Cheryl as she doesnt drink! By the time Cheryl was ready to drive us home we were a little giggly and even more so when we disclosed that we needed to go via the supermarket for provisions, Cheryl did a quick list of her own and we set off. I dont think the supermarket was quite ready for us decending on them, but we managed to pick bits up that were useful when we got home. In return for the lift and great friendship I let Cheryl take cuttings of two of my bouganvilliers which she has been admiring for some time.
10th July we had arranged to visit Paddy at her farm where she runs a womans project called the Kenana Knitters. As it is some distance from me, Julian and I arranged to meet one of the workers in town to get a lift. Now the story here is that Paddy and her husband own 800 acres of land on which they breed horses, have a dairy and wheat farm, an overland vehicle camp site, and various properties that they rent out to families, also they run the project which started out as being an acquired project left to them which involved women preparing fleeces to be spun into wool, which was sold. Well the project grew and the wool is now bought from sheep farmers in various regions, the wool is then sent out to be spun and washed, it is returned to the project ready to be dyed and knitted into garments and toys. These items are shipped out to outlets round the world, many places giving specific orders for items that they want individualised. The project has grown from strength to strength. The ladies who work for the project are supported by earning for the piece work they produce either at the project or in their own homes. In return Paddy also provides health care for the women, HIV advisors come and take to the women together with providing anti viral meds and a clinic on the premises for family planning and other health issues. A savings plan is in place to help the woman keep their money as their own instead of going into the hands of their husbands who often abuse them and spend the money on booze or drugs. The woman are also encouraged to do basic literacy classes on the premises enabling them to be able to write their names and basic reading, as many of them have had no schooling. There is now even a computer class available to those that are able to progress further. The project has 240 woman workers who are helped by the business many of whom are HIV positive and now able to receive medication without the need for treking to the nearest VCT clinic to get them, which in some cases can be a trek of many hours to get to it. The smaller children of the workers also come and are helped by the clinic and are found sitting on the grass under the shade of the trees playing with the creche toys whilst their mothers are busy knitting and finding the comfort of like minded women to spend time with who know their situations are similar. To many woman this has become their life line to a 'normal' life, they have gained freedom from husbands who abuse and beat them to be able to rent somewhere for them to live with their children in a safe environment. They have found a community of people who understand their plight. A number of them have progressed so well that they have found employment outside with the help of additional support from the project. I am possibly going to look at spending a few days a week helping at his project if I can sort out the transport issues.
Ok well that is enough catch up for now will send more maybe tomorrow.... so much to tell and so much is happening I just cant keep up.
Love to you all,
Susannah
Tuesday, 5 May 2009
Sorry - War and Peace - Mombassa a freebie
Hi Everyone,
at last someone in Kenya has treated me!!!!! A surprise trip….. Mombassa , sun, sea and lots of sand! Tried to keep it short but you know me!
Faisal, an old acquaintance from 2006 suddenly appeared when we were out a couple of weeks ago. Since then he has been in touch quite a lot…. I think he has a thing for Edwina. He asked where we hadn’t been and what plans we had for the holiday weekend. Not difficult answers we hadn’t been to many places in Kenya and we had no plans for the weekend, we decided that Mombassa was top on the list of places that we would like to go to.
No sooner said than done, he arranged for a ‘business trip’ to coincide with the weekend. To our benefit he was driving down and took Catherine, Edwina and I with him. The preparation was mad, we bought Catherine a bikini from the matumba (second had stalls) got it washed and dried before we left, I had to locate my ‘holiday’ clothes including doing a bit of alteration to my bikinis which had grown baggy in the bottom as mine has reduced! The animals were provided food for and Henry was left in charge, I did have to get Joe my friendly electrician in to add a switch outside so Henry could turn on the security lights himself as all the switches are inside the house, this was completed as we loaded the car with our bags ready to leave.
Bags packed and loaded we left Nakuru at approx 7.30pm for a night drive down to the coast in the cool of the night and without a lot of traffic in order to make the most of the Friday and Saturday for the beach and the Faizals business transactions. En route he had arranged to collect a ‘new to him’ car in Nairobi this little rendezvous was interesting as we had to offload all our things out of one car into another in the dark in a petrol station…… looked dodgy if I have to say so myself.
We stopped a couple of times en route for required toilet stops, food and drink, a truck breakdown (his business), we arrived in Mombassa at 5.30am only a 10 hour drive and then started the hunt for somewhere to stay, this minor arrangement hadn’t been made as Faizal wasn’t sure where we wanted to be, we had no idea either, other than by the beach.
After many attempts of finding somewhere we could afford, ie v. cheap he called someone he knew who ran a chalet hotel resort and got us booked in and paid for. We checked out the room which had 4 beds and were told the 4th would be removed… we all sighed a sigh of relief….. were worried Faizal had planned on joining us but were wrong! We went straight to the supermarket and collected supplied of munchies, a 5 ltr bottle of water and fruit, we still had some scotch pancakes and chapattis that we had cooked for the trip.
Faizal left us at Alloha where we explored our surroundings…. At this point we found that we were right on the beach which was white sand as far as you could see. We went back to the room and put on out swimmers and headed to the beach for a well earned soak in the sea to relax our aching bodies from the drive.
Catherine is a non swimmer who has been no where near a pool or beach….. it took some convincing to get her to stand in the water let alone ‘play’ in it…. She was on a mission to learn to swim though……. We only had two days! After a couple of hours (it was now 11ish) we decided to go back to the room and nap as it was getting too hot and the beach boys had honed in on us as the beach was deserted.
We had a nap after fighting with the fans and the aircon, sleep was a struggle but what we got was definitely needed. We lounged around and read until the heat of the mid day had passed, we then went back to the beach, played and got Catherine practicing floating in the shallows (no mean feat). We were a constant attraction to the men selling rides on:- camels, sail boats, glass bottom boats, jet skis, sailboards and gigolo's, not to mention the ladies offering massage, fruit and henna tattoos.
Needless to say the tourism market has suffered badly and even Mombassa is suffering as an example we managed to get a ride for all three of us for an hour on a Dhow for 500ks total, we had been asked by most people for 1,500ks each as a starting price. The guys we went with were really nice and happy to take us when they found we were broke volunteers with lots of stories and no money, besides we told them that three ‘babes’ would help promote their boat. They were very decent and not in the slightest with other things on their agenda. It was a fabulous hour and we were sorry that it ended, even Catherine began to relax by the end of it and was smiling and happy. We had lots of long long long walks along the shallows, which were bath water temperature, the outside temp being 33degrees C by the cars readout. We were in heaven, this trip was a long dreamt of trip that I could never manage to afford to arrange.
Faizal picked us up in the evening we weren’t sure if we were eating or clubbing afterwards, we dressed up for the occasion and found that he took us to the ‘old town’ we wished he had told us as being so Muslim our dress code was definitely not suitable. We refused to get out of the car at the first place he pulled up at as it was full of women clad from head to toe in black burkas, there was NO WAY we would have got out of there alive, besides which we felt so disrespectful to their heavy requirement for good dress code, something that Faizal was oblivious to even though he is Muslim, his defence was that he was struck by the fact that we were so gorgeous he didn’t think.
He took us to another place that was a pavement food bar where he pre ordered the food and when it arrived it was a plate full of goat kabab, something that we all tried in vain to eat and none of us enjoyed other than FAIZAL……. When asked if they did salad or vegetables he said what chicken, none of us quite understood that, but, no they didn’t do either. We were still gawped at by all the other families who were sitting at the tables to the degree that we asked to leave as it was too uncomfortable to stay any longer. We then left and went on a FAIZAL challenge to find fresh coconuts to drink the milk, duly found we were given one each to down followed by a large slice of palm heart, neither of which sat well on top of the forced swallowing of the kebabs. We returned to our chalet with a reluctant FAIZAL who had been busy chewing Myrrah all evening, (a plant stem which is chewed by many men by the kilo bags in order to help them stay awake and functioning all night), he was ready to head to the nearest nightclub, we on the other hand were ready for a good sleep after a day at the beach, we won, he headed off to visit his relatives for a night of more Myrrah chewing.
Next morning (Saturday) we got up for an interesting breakfast…. Fawlty Towers re-run. We went for a long long walk again on the beach accompanied by many interested parties, how many camels can they get on a beach and how many times must you say you don’t want a trip to a lonely beach cove for ‘swimming for two’.
This was the day that we got our Dhow trip and walked along the beach for lunch at a fish b-b-q, Catherine and I had Coconut rice instead as the fish smelt so so so bad, but Edwina said it was fab! We also checked out a place called Pirates that we had been told did music and dancing in the evening. We wandered back to the room and slept ready for our evening of dancing to which we did invite Faizal along, he said he would join us later as he was busy.
We decided to dress down for this occasion after the reception we got the night before, we opened our treasured bottle of merlot that we had treated ourselves to in the supermarket, we preened ourselves, which in the heat was a total waste of time. I ended up with amazing ringlets due to the shower water being salt water but we were sweating buckets which had a detrimental effect on our appearances, makeup just slid. We decided it was dark and no one would notice, in traditional girls night out, don’t give a dam attitude.
The walk up the beach was interesting after dark there were NO beach boys for a start and all the hotels, bars and restaurants had their variety of lights illuminating the beach so we were never in total darkness, other than the spot that I found to answer a nature call. We arrived at Pirates some half an hour later wandered in and made ourselves at home in a prime seat by the door at the beach side of the building, we then joined the dancing throng, some short time later we realised that no one was over 21! We had come so early it was junior disco and no one had let us know, we joined in anyway.
We then ventured outside and danced in the sand and then the surf…… bad move dropped camera in the sea……oops! Kind of put a dampers on the evening cried loads at the foolishness of it all and the wine didn't help. Faizal came to pick us up at 11.30pm to go to another club but our spirits had plunged to an all time low because of the camera. We went home. Faizal went off to the club by himself and apparently spent a fab night chewing myrrah. Got up in the morning and with a clear head looked at the camera..... turned out to be Catherine's brothers camera, I was horrified and relieved all in one, pleased that I didn't lose mine but so so upset that I had dropped his camera and I also had to break the news to Catherine. I called her brother and told him later, better I did it than Catherine I think!
We checked out at 10am after breakfast and a walk on the beach, two hours later Faizal, after many phone calls, appeared to pick us up, he had been out until 7am and he was driving home or so we thought………. We went shopping en route for various items that he wanted for stocking his kitchen cupboards, things that I had no idea what they were called or how to cook them……… the places we went to to buy them were even more interesting and we were haggled by up to 6 people at a time for best buys and didn’t once leave the car to go in a shop! We on the other hand bought coconuts to give as gifts. We stocked up at supermarket for lunch things, and Faizal leapt out of the car to have a biryani en route that he had ordered, he left us in the car with the a/c going and engine running, which caused the alarm to go off and he was no where to be seen, we eventually managed to stop the alarm but had no engine or ac and were parked in full sunshine, Faizal appeared unperturbed a little while later and we set off home in daylight, so much for our early start, it was now 3pm.
We were rewarded by views of the landscape that we had missed when we came as it was night-time, unusual baobab trees that looked fabulous and brought back memories of a story I read as a child. The roadside villages and terrain with flat stretches of land with rolling hills surrounding it. We drove through the heat of the sun and then intermittent torrential rain which ran along the sides of the roads in deep fast running natural gullies of red soil, the vegetation looked so vivid green after the rains almost surreal in appearance against the Mombassa red soil and the blue skies.
The locals who were walking in the middle of no where were unperturbed by the heavy rains and just continued their journeys as if it were still sunshine, their destination the only thing on their minds. We arrived in Nairobi at about 9pm where Catherine met up with her brother, they went together to her mothers as she was unwell. We continued our journey also picking up Faizals brother to take him with us to Nakuru, we also managed to stop for Pizza (well needed) whilst waiting for him aprox 2 hours.
Edwina and I slept the last part of the journey got home about 12.30am, emptied the bags from the car, Faizal and his brother left, I said hi to the dogs and cat and dived into bed, with paka who was pleased to see me return even though I was exhausted.
The cough I have had for about 2 weeks is still with me and didn't get left in Mombassa as I had hoped, in actual fact it is worse than ever, I must be driving everyone crazy, I know it is me.
Mombassa mission had been accomplished and only spent 1,000ks (10 pounds roughly).
at last someone in Kenya has treated me!!!!! A surprise trip….. Mombassa , sun, sea and lots of sand! Tried to keep it short but you know me!
Faisal, an old acquaintance from 2006 suddenly appeared when we were out a couple of weeks ago. Since then he has been in touch quite a lot…. I think he has a thing for Edwina. He asked where we hadn’t been and what plans we had for the holiday weekend. Not difficult answers we hadn’t been to many places in Kenya and we had no plans for the weekend, we decided that Mombassa was top on the list of places that we would like to go to.
No sooner said than done, he arranged for a ‘business trip’ to coincide with the weekend. To our benefit he was driving down and took Catherine, Edwina and I with him. The preparation was mad, we bought Catherine a bikini from the matumba (second had stalls) got it washed and dried before we left, I had to locate my ‘holiday’ clothes including doing a bit of alteration to my bikinis which had grown baggy in the bottom as mine has reduced! The animals were provided food for and Henry was left in charge, I did have to get Joe my friendly electrician in to add a switch outside so Henry could turn on the security lights himself as all the switches are inside the house, this was completed as we loaded the car with our bags ready to leave.
Bags packed and loaded we left Nakuru at approx 7.30pm for a night drive down to the coast in the cool of the night and without a lot of traffic in order to make the most of the Friday and Saturday for the beach and the Faizals business transactions. En route he had arranged to collect a ‘new to him’ car in Nairobi this little rendezvous was interesting as we had to offload all our things out of one car into another in the dark in a petrol station…… looked dodgy if I have to say so myself.
We stopped a couple of times en route for required toilet stops, food and drink, a truck breakdown (his business), we arrived in Mombassa at 5.30am only a 10 hour drive and then started the hunt for somewhere to stay, this minor arrangement hadn’t been made as Faizal wasn’t sure where we wanted to be, we had no idea either, other than by the beach.
After many attempts of finding somewhere we could afford, ie v. cheap he called someone he knew who ran a chalet hotel resort and got us booked in and paid for. We checked out the room which had 4 beds and were told the 4th would be removed… we all sighed a sigh of relief….. were worried Faizal had planned on joining us but were wrong! We went straight to the supermarket and collected supplied of munchies, a 5 ltr bottle of water and fruit, we still had some scotch pancakes and chapattis that we had cooked for the trip.
Faizal left us at Alloha where we explored our surroundings…. At this point we found that we were right on the beach which was white sand as far as you could see. We went back to the room and put on out swimmers and headed to the beach for a well earned soak in the sea to relax our aching bodies from the drive.
Catherine is a non swimmer who has been no where near a pool or beach….. it took some convincing to get her to stand in the water let alone ‘play’ in it…. She was on a mission to learn to swim though……. We only had two days! After a couple of hours (it was now 11ish) we decided to go back to the room and nap as it was getting too hot and the beach boys had honed in on us as the beach was deserted.
We had a nap after fighting with the fans and the aircon, sleep was a struggle but what we got was definitely needed. We lounged around and read until the heat of the mid day had passed, we then went back to the beach, played and got Catherine practicing floating in the shallows (no mean feat). We were a constant attraction to the men selling rides on:- camels, sail boats, glass bottom boats, jet skis, sailboards and gigolo's, not to mention the ladies offering massage, fruit and henna tattoos.
Needless to say the tourism market has suffered badly and even Mombassa is suffering as an example we managed to get a ride for all three of us for an hour on a Dhow for 500ks total, we had been asked by most people for 1,500ks each as a starting price. The guys we went with were really nice and happy to take us when they found we were broke volunteers with lots of stories and no money, besides we told them that three ‘babes’ would help promote their boat. They were very decent and not in the slightest with other things on their agenda. It was a fabulous hour and we were sorry that it ended, even Catherine began to relax by the end of it and was smiling and happy. We had lots of long long long walks along the shallows, which were bath water temperature, the outside temp being 33degrees C by the cars readout. We were in heaven, this trip was a long dreamt of trip that I could never manage to afford to arrange.
Faizal picked us up in the evening we weren’t sure if we were eating or clubbing afterwards, we dressed up for the occasion and found that he took us to the ‘old town’ we wished he had told us as being so Muslim our dress code was definitely not suitable. We refused to get out of the car at the first place he pulled up at as it was full of women clad from head to toe in black burkas, there was NO WAY we would have got out of there alive, besides which we felt so disrespectful to their heavy requirement for good dress code, something that Faizal was oblivious to even though he is Muslim, his defence was that he was struck by the fact that we were so gorgeous he didn’t think.
He took us to another place that was a pavement food bar where he pre ordered the food and when it arrived it was a plate full of goat kabab, something that we all tried in vain to eat and none of us enjoyed other than FAIZAL……. When asked if they did salad or vegetables he said what chicken, none of us quite understood that, but, no they didn’t do either. We were still gawped at by all the other families who were sitting at the tables to the degree that we asked to leave as it was too uncomfortable to stay any longer. We then left and went on a FAIZAL challenge to find fresh coconuts to drink the milk, duly found we were given one each to down followed by a large slice of palm heart, neither of which sat well on top of the forced swallowing of the kebabs. We returned to our chalet with a reluctant FAIZAL who had been busy chewing Myrrah all evening, (a plant stem which is chewed by many men by the kilo bags in order to help them stay awake and functioning all night), he was ready to head to the nearest nightclub, we on the other hand were ready for a good sleep after a day at the beach, we won, he headed off to visit his relatives for a night of more Myrrah chewing.
Next morning (Saturday) we got up for an interesting breakfast…. Fawlty Towers re-run. We went for a long long walk again on the beach accompanied by many interested parties, how many camels can they get on a beach and how many times must you say you don’t want a trip to a lonely beach cove for ‘swimming for two’.
This was the day that we got our Dhow trip and walked along the beach for lunch at a fish b-b-q, Catherine and I had Coconut rice instead as the fish smelt so so so bad, but Edwina said it was fab! We also checked out a place called Pirates that we had been told did music and dancing in the evening. We wandered back to the room and slept ready for our evening of dancing to which we did invite Faizal along, he said he would join us later as he was busy.
We decided to dress down for this occasion after the reception we got the night before, we opened our treasured bottle of merlot that we had treated ourselves to in the supermarket, we preened ourselves, which in the heat was a total waste of time. I ended up with amazing ringlets due to the shower water being salt water but we were sweating buckets which had a detrimental effect on our appearances, makeup just slid. We decided it was dark and no one would notice, in traditional girls night out, don’t give a dam attitude.
The walk up the beach was interesting after dark there were NO beach boys for a start and all the hotels, bars and restaurants had their variety of lights illuminating the beach so we were never in total darkness, other than the spot that I found to answer a nature call. We arrived at Pirates some half an hour later wandered in and made ourselves at home in a prime seat by the door at the beach side of the building, we then joined the dancing throng, some short time later we realised that no one was over 21! We had come so early it was junior disco and no one had let us know, we joined in anyway.
We then ventured outside and danced in the sand and then the surf…… bad move dropped camera in the sea……oops! Kind of put a dampers on the evening cried loads at the foolishness of it all and the wine didn't help. Faizal came to pick us up at 11.30pm to go to another club but our spirits had plunged to an all time low because of the camera. We went home. Faizal went off to the club by himself and apparently spent a fab night chewing myrrah. Got up in the morning and with a clear head looked at the camera..... turned out to be Catherine's brothers camera, I was horrified and relieved all in one, pleased that I didn't lose mine but so so upset that I had dropped his camera and I also had to break the news to Catherine. I called her brother and told him later, better I did it than Catherine I think!
We checked out at 10am after breakfast and a walk on the beach, two hours later Faizal, after many phone calls, appeared to pick us up, he had been out until 7am and he was driving home or so we thought………. We went shopping en route for various items that he wanted for stocking his kitchen cupboards, things that I had no idea what they were called or how to cook them……… the places we went to to buy them were even more interesting and we were haggled by up to 6 people at a time for best buys and didn’t once leave the car to go in a shop! We on the other hand bought coconuts to give as gifts. We stocked up at supermarket for lunch things, and Faizal leapt out of the car to have a biryani en route that he had ordered, he left us in the car with the a/c going and engine running, which caused the alarm to go off and he was no where to be seen, we eventually managed to stop the alarm but had no engine or ac and were parked in full sunshine, Faizal appeared unperturbed a little while later and we set off home in daylight, so much for our early start, it was now 3pm.
We were rewarded by views of the landscape that we had missed when we came as it was night-time, unusual baobab trees that looked fabulous and brought back memories of a story I read as a child. The roadside villages and terrain with flat stretches of land with rolling hills surrounding it. We drove through the heat of the sun and then intermittent torrential rain which ran along the sides of the roads in deep fast running natural gullies of red soil, the vegetation looked so vivid green after the rains almost surreal in appearance against the Mombassa red soil and the blue skies.
The locals who were walking in the middle of no where were unperturbed by the heavy rains and just continued their journeys as if it were still sunshine, their destination the only thing on their minds. We arrived in Nairobi at about 9pm where Catherine met up with her brother, they went together to her mothers as she was unwell. We continued our journey also picking up Faizals brother to take him with us to Nakuru, we also managed to stop for Pizza (well needed) whilst waiting for him aprox 2 hours.
Edwina and I slept the last part of the journey got home about 12.30am, emptied the bags from the car, Faizal and his brother left, I said hi to the dogs and cat and dived into bed, with paka who was pleased to see me return even though I was exhausted.
The cough I have had for about 2 weeks is still with me and didn't get left in Mombassa as I had hoped, in actual fact it is worse than ever, I must be driving everyone crazy, I know it is me.
Mombassa mission had been accomplished and only spent 1,000ks (10 pounds roughly).
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